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Remove left side floorboard and brake pedal assembly. Remove master cylinder reservoir. Remove right side floorboard assembly. Remove left crankcase rear cover assembly

Remove the excess bracket from the floorboard bracket. Take care when cutting the bracket to ensure that you do not cut into the bushing or the bushings weld

Carefully grind the remaining extra bracket to near the marks around the bushing. Use a flat or half-round bastard file to do the final shaping. Let the bracket cool and then prime and paint it. If you do not own a grinder, the metal can be removed with a file. It will take some time but it can be done.
When finished with the grinding / shaping operation the end result should look like this. Note the remaining weld that extends outside of the bushing. Care should be taken while cutting the excess metal to not cut into this weld.

Remove the master cylinder from the stock bracket. Remove the screw that holds the brake fluid inlet nozzle to the cylinder. Do not remove the nozzle. Rotate the nozzle so that it is oriented similar to what is shown in the photos. Install the supplied hold down clip. Tighten the clip to the cylinder with the screw. Being careful to install the master cylinder in the correct orientation, install the master cylinder to the supplied bracket.

Install the heat shield to the master cylinder bracket. Pay attention to the orientation of the shield. Use the supplied photos to ensure that the shield is properly installed. Route the master cylinder brake line under the motor mount. Attach the line to the master cylinder. Install the master cylinder and bracket. Rotate the bracket so that the heads of the two Allen screws that hold the master cylinder to the bracket just touch the frame down tube. Once you are sure that the bracket is located correctly tighten the bracket bolts.

Install the new pivot bolt and large washer on the floor board / brake peddle assembly. See photos for details

Temporarily install the brake fluid reservoir and mark the brake master cylinder supply hose for length. There should be approximately 3-1/2" of hose required. Measure twice and cut once. Cut the hose to the proper length. Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir. Connect the hose end to the master cylinder

Install the right side floorboard to the frame. Make sure that the large washer is installed between the pivot bearing and the frame. Use washers under the heads of all bolts. Tighten everything securely. Install the tail light switch, spring, master cylinder connector pin, and cotter pin. Check that the brake pedal operates smoothly. If the operation of the pedal is not smooth the master cylinder bracket is not correctly oriented and you will need to loosen everything off and reinstall the master cylinder bracket in the proper orientation. The brakes should operate freely without ANY binding.

Left side Install. This is the easy side. Bolt the new bracket to frame as shown using two 10mm hex head bolts with washers. Then bolt floorboard and shifter assembly to this bracket with two 3/8-24 hex head bolts. Use washers under heads of bolts, and also, very important, use two more washers between floorboard bracket and new mounting bracket. Reason for this is the stock floorboard bracket is not flat on the backside. The washers make everything flat. Tighten securely and move on to shift linkage next.

HEAVY DUTY SHIFT ROD

INSTALLATION

1. Remove old shift rod saving left hand threaded lock nut at tranny shift lever.

2. Install left hand threaded lock nut on new straight rod threaded on both ends.

3. Screw same end of new rod into tranny shift lever swivel, ALL the way in, and tighten lock nut.

4. Tube with threads inside both ends will now screw to that rod as FAR as possible. Do not lock large lock nut at this time.

5. Screw bent/welded rod with two jam nuts into other end of tube, all the way up against lock nuts tight.

6. Bolt the welded end of rod to the foot shifter swivel with supplied allen bolt.

7. At this point check position of your foot shifter lever. If any adjustment is needed remove the allen bolt and turn the front rod and adjustment tube clockwise or counterclockwise until shift lever is where you want it, then lock down the jam nut between the adjustment tube and the rear straight shaft.

If more adjustment is needed you can remove one of the jam nuts on forward bent linkage, but be very sure that the adjustment tube is then tightened securely up against the welded jam nut. Any length adjustment will always be between tube and rear straight rod.

8. Use the wrench flats in center of tube for holding while tightening lock nuts. Once you get adjusted to where you like it then a little locktight on the threads of allen bolt and lock nuts would make everything more secure.

Reinstall the left crankcase rear cover assembly and you are done with this side.

Now the fun part. BLEEDING THE BRAKES

You can either take it to a shop that specializes in bleeding of brakes, or as I finally did, go to Auto Zone and buy a vacuum bleeder pump for about $30.00 and follow instructions with it

The other thing you can try is buying some Speed bleeders as some have done. This will make the who process much easier.

No matter what, you MUST ensure there is no air left in the brake lines.

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